An impressively saturated ruby/purple color is followed by aromas of chocolate, smoke, and asphalt. Slightly clipped in the mouth, with a good attack, high acidity, rough tannin, medium body, and a rustic finish, it is a Merlot for those who enjoy some toughness in their wines. Drink it over the next 5-6 years. Tel. (707) 944-2020; Fax (707) 257-7501

Great vineyards, great winery, great vintage: There’s lots to like about this big, bold, fruity wine that manages to be complex and elegant at the same time. Masses of blackberry, black currant and violets, with smoke and vanilla from oak aging. What’s hard to convey is the balance, richness, harmony and depth of flavor, which are really stunning. Age it for a few years if you want, but it’s at or near its delicious best now. ——S.H.(2/1/2001)—— 93

A silky, inviting wine with lush fruit centered on black cherries and red plums, with a hint of blackberry and a sprinkling of chocolate and spice. The finish is long and rich, with echoes of the opening fruit.——W.E.(12/31/1999)—— 91