Here’s the real deal in a sumptuous, elegant and complex Merlot, from a venerable Napa producer. Fully dry, this has deeply earthy, blackberry, rum and cola flavors that are wrapped in fine, ripely sweet tannins. It should gain bottle complexity over the next five years.——S.H.(3/1/2007)—— 89

Finely structured with superb tannins and acids, and bone dry, this Merlot, with some Cabernet added, is very fruity, but it seems too young right now. There’s a tight, locked-down, rugged quality. The cherries and blackberries are struggling to get out. Best after 2007, and for a couple years after.——S.H.(10/1/2006)—— 88