The 1971 Nuits St Georges 1er Cru Clos des Porrets St Georges from Henri Gouges might well be the best mature vintage that I have tasted from the domaine. The bouquet is exquisite: vestiges of red fruit, dried herbs, warm gravel and a touch of tarnished copper piping. It has so much character and still so much freshness. The palate is fully mature, but not over the hill. The acidity is beautifully judged and neatly entwined with the ferrous fruit. It is not a powerful Pinot Noir, not packed to the rafters with fruit, however, the detail and the natural personality of this 44-year-old Nuits Saint Georges is beguiling. This is exquisite.
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