The blend of 70% Marsanne and 30% Roussanne, the 2005 Crozes-Hermitage Les Launes blanc, is richly fruity, goes through 100% malolactic, and has plenty of citrus, pineapple, and earthy notes. It is best drunk in its first 3-4 years of life. The very talented Burgundian Jacques Granges continues to build on the success he has had at Delas Freres. He, along with the new owners, the Deutz-Roederer Champagne empire (they recently acquired Pichon-Lalande in Pauillac as well), have been responsible for the resurrection of Delas from a so-so negociant to one of the better sources of top-quality Rhones. And this has been done in less than a decade. 2004 is a classic vintage of structure and good balance, but too often lacking concentration. The 2005s are much more concentrated but also structured, tannic, and backward.Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Bright, with stone fruit and floral notes followed by melon and toast hints on the finish, which shows nice length and purity. Drink now. 1,065 cases made. -JM