From a steep eastern hillside vineyard in Oakville, the excruciatingly youthful, intense 2001 Cabernet Sauvignon Backus Vineyard possesses an opaque purple color (that resembles a barrel sample rather than a 10-year old wine) as well as an extraordinary perfume of raspberry jam, creme de cassis, acacia flowers and crushed rocks. Full-bodied with magnificent concentration, purity and texture, this modern day legend should still be drinking beautifully in 2035. Two brilliant wines from Joseph Phelps Vineyards, the Insignia is closer to drinkability, but it still needs another five years whereas the Backus Vineyard requires 7-8. Both are 35-40 year wines for those with cold cellars and youthful genes. Tel. (707) 963-2745; Fax (707) 963-4831

Tasted alongside a bevy of Oakville Cabs, this beauty was the star of the show. It’s a huge, masculine wine, authoritative and ageable. Pours dark and drinks tannic and oaky, with a massive core of cassis, cherry and chocolate fruit encased in perfect tannins. What grace and power, what balance. Drink now through 2016, at least. ——S.H.(11/1/2005)—— 97