The 2007 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Hinter der Burg (at only 12.3% in alcohol) is dominated by lentil and herbs; subtly creamy and glossy in texture yet refreshing, with pepper, beet root, coffee, and wet stone in a long finish. This impeccably balanced Federspiel – not picked until well after the middle of October, incidentally – will prove versatile over the next 3-4 years at least. This was one of our most expensive and laborious harvests ever, says Toni Bodenstein, adding that if the mere two bottlings he does of Federspiel had not this year represented a full 50% of his production, the attention and selectivity necessary for the quality of all the other wines would not have been possible. Bodenstein notes that he didn’t risk long skin contact this year, as he did not want to risk losing tartaric acidity to precipitation.Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700