Toni Bodenstein did not consider any of his grapes truly ripe until October 11, at which point he harvested a 2006 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Hinter der Burg which in finished alcohol is already on the cusp of Smaragd. Green tea and snap pea waft from the glass. Beet root and snap pea are tinged with iodine on a glossy, ester-filled palate, but the wine finishes with refinement and a sense of elegance, not to mention minerality. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700