The 2004 Puligny-Montrachet Enseignieres from Jean-Francois Coche has a surprisingly pale color. The nose is taciturn at first, only reluctantly opening to reveal grass clipping and dandelion scents, a limestone element surfacing and then expanding. The palate is nicely balanced with a Meursault-like, walnut- inspired entry. It is elegant and suave with an understated almond and hazelnut finish that waltzes along. This is very refined and drinking beautifully. Drink now-2025. Tasted November 2013. Here is another raft of wines from the most feted and yet still mysterious Cote de Beaune growers. Jean-Francois Coche’s reds are more elusive than his whites, but they can be astonishing. Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 524-1524