The 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Charmes confirms its brilliant showing from barrel, offering up a lovely bouquet of fresh pear, mandarin, buttered apples, white flowers and fresh pastry, followed by a medium to full-bodied, layered and multidimensional palate that's muscular, structured and concentrated, with fine cut and a long, chalky finish. As is quite often the case, I have a preference for this Charmes over Lafon's Perrières this year, though it will be interesting to put that contention to the test a decade from now.