This year, Mikulski was able to fulfill a longstanding dream when a colleague agreed to sell him three barrels worth of 2006 Meursault Perrieres. Mikulski claims that the original agreement was for two, but he made such a convincing case that the thought of exceeding 33% new wood horrified him, that the grower was moved to generosity! An ethereally floral, honeyed, pear and cherry distillate bouquet ushers in a clear, pure, essence of orchard fruits shimmering with saline and chalky minerality. There is a subtle creaminess of texture here but scarcely any sensation of weight, as this virtually floats off into notably “cool” finishing fruit, and its mineral character – an impression no doubt reinforced by the wines moderate alcohol – refreshes as it intrigues. In lieu of a track record, I would hazard the guess that this will be a good candidate for 8-10 years aging.
Francois Mikulski has been working his uncle, Henri Boilot’s vines for fifteen vintages, and his relatively lean but pristine wine making style is as distinctive as is his (lack of any conventional) label. In retrospect, Mikulski says, he wishes he had started picking just before the 2006 ban de vendange, rather than a couple of days later, but he is happy to have finished wines hovering around 13.5% alcohol, low for the vintage.
A Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70
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