The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino needs quite a bit of time to open up in the glass. It is a rich, textured wine literally bursting with dark fruit, licorice, mocha and coffee beans. Today the 2006 is quite closed in on itself aromatically and structurally, yet over time the wine’s pedigree gradually emerges. Recent bottles of the 2002 and 2003 showed exceptionally well. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. I have been an admirer of Cupano for many years, but a recent visit was my first. It won’t be my last. This tiny winery sits in one of the most strikingly beautiful, picturesque spots in all of Montalcino, with breathtaking views in all directions. Ornella and Lionel Cousin farm their vineyards biodynamically. Work in the cellar is equally non-interventionalist. The wines are neither fined nor filtered prior to bottling. Cupano favors a flashy, up-front style with generous fruit and at times lavish oak. As good as the wines are young, the real surprise is just how well they develop in bottle.Importer: Tosco Wines Inc., Richmond, CA; tel. (510) 232-7400
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