The flamboyant 1996 Chardonnay Dutton Ranch offers the tell-tale concoction of tropical fruit intertwined with smoky, meaty aromas. The wine possesses tangy acidity for a 1996, as well as provocative, rich, intense flavors that have obviously enjoyed plenty of lees stirring, and high quality French oak. This is a tasty, excellent, possibly outstanding wine that is more tightly-knit than usual. It is a candidate for 3-5 years of cellaring. All the Kistler Chardonnays are made in a Burgundian manner. They are barrel-fermented, given full malolactic fermentation, extensive lees stirring, racked out of their barrels following a year's cask aging, and allowed to settle in tank until bottling, which usually occurs without any fining or filtration. All of the wines reviewed in this segment were tasted from tank as they were awaiting bottling early next year.Readers should recognize that Kistler's policy is to sell most of their production directly to consumers and restaurants. Readers who live in states that permit direct shipment of California wines should be sure and get on the winery's mailing list.Tel. (707) 823-5603; Fax (707) 823-6709
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