The 1990 Chardonnays represent the pinnacle of what this grape is capable of achieving in California. The 1990 Dutton Ranch Chardonnay may potentially be a better wine in several years than the Vine Hill Road Chardonnay. While it is much more closed and structured, it exhibits a powerful, tightly knit nose of vanillin, smoke, buttery fruit, and wet stones. In the mouth, excellent extraction of fruit is evident, as well as fine acidity, good richness, and impressive length. I would not be surprised to see this wine drink beautifully for at least 6-7 years.The extraordinary team of Steve Kistler and Mark Bixler fashions exhilarating Chardonnays that are compellingly complex, lavishly rich, and exceptionally well-balanced. One can quibble over which is best, but they are all immensely satisfying Chardonnays. Given how irresistible they are young, most of them are probably drunk within hours of purchase. That may be a shame, as Kistler's best cuvees of 1987 and 1988 are aging exceptionally well.
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