The 2008 Nuits. St. Georges Les Cras is ageing beautifully and surpasses one’s expectations for a village cru. It has a lovely, open, generous bouquet with red currant and blackberry leaf that is nicely focused, offering bacon fat scents with continued aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. There is just a little hardness toward the finish and perhaps it does not quite possess the persistency of a premier cru, but it contains impressive mineralite and tension. I will be covering Louis-Michel’s highly praised; elusive and expensive wines in future issues of The Wine Advocate. But for now, in October I attended a fascinating tasting of older vintages to glean how they age. Certainly, these wines are imbued with a citrus freshness that verges of sorbet-like with some wines. They clearly go out to impress and impress they do. What these wines refuse to do is short-change the Burgundy-lover apropos perfume or flavor; they willingly go out there to satisfy the senses. They also appear to age slowly and gracefully, and I suspect most of these will reach their plateau after around a decade in the cellar.