Looking at the 2008 Reserve Chardonnay beside the Black Label Chardonnay of the same vintage, this is streaks ahead in terms of complexity and density of flavor. It echoes and reverberates on the tongue; the 14 years of age is a suggestion in the mouth, and no more. There are notes of saffron, aniseed, grilled peach, preserved lemon, brine and a hint of br?lée top. Super smart. Years to go.

Smoke, citrus, lime zest, lees, nuts, wild honey, herbs and pear aromas. Fresh, succulent fruit and discreet toasty oak. A good, refreshing crisp and dry Chardonnay. Alc: 14%.