It was not easy to make a 1992 Cote Rotie this rich, ripe, and complex. However, Gilbert Clusel decided to use all of the fruit from his best vineyard, Les Grandes Places, in the 1992 regular cuvee, resulting in a rich wine. Aged in small barrels of which about 35% are new, this unfiltered 1992 Cote Rotie reveals a saturated dark ruby/purple color, a moderately intense nose of cassis, pepper, herbs, and spice, medium to full body, outstanding richness and ripeness, moderate tannin, and admirable purity and length. This fleshy, meaty Cote Rotie can be drunk now or aged for 10-12 years. When I first visited Domaine Clusel-Roch over a decade ago, Gilbert Clusel's father was running the estate, and, to put it mildly, I was disappointed with the quality level I found. However, that was fifteen years ago, and recent vintages of Clusel-Roch have convinced me that this is one of the new stars of this small appellation.
Importer: a Daniel Johnnes Selection, Jeroboam Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 374-9415.
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