The 2001 Pinot Noir Rincon Vineyard was closed initially, but with coaxing/swirling, notes of liquid rocks, underbrush, plums, figs, black currants, and cherries emerged along with a foresty, autumnal component reminiscent of a Morey St.-Denis grand cru Burgundy. A dark ruby/plum color is accompanied by wonderful sweetness, excellent acidity, and firm tannin. It needs 1-2 years of cellaring, and should drink well for a decade. Tel. (805) 489-0446

Riper and fruitier than last year’s release, a big, juicy wine that rewards the palate with layers of blackberry and cherry on top of the usual cola, tomato and rhubarb flavors. Structurally, it’s a big wine, with firm tannins. I would cellar this until next year. ——S.H.(6/1/2004)—— 92