The 2005 Shiraz – Viognier Estate Grown spent 10 months in 35% new French oak. Purple in color, it has a fine bouquet of damp earth, smoke, blueberry, and blackberry liqueur. Full-bodied, on the palate the fruit is quite intense and spicy while remaining elegant. The finish is slightly tannic but should resolve with 2-3 years in the cellar. It will drink well through 2020. De Bortoli owns estate vineyards in Riverina, Hunter Valley, and Yarra Valley and produces several tiers of dry table wines in addition to their sweet and fortified dessert wines.Importer: De Bortoli Wines, North America; www.debortoli.com.auAlso tasted: 2007 Sauvignon Blanc- Semillon Windy Peak (75), 2007 Viognier Windy Peak (80), 2006 Pinot Noir Vat 10 (78), 2007 Pinot Noir Windy Peak (72), 2006 Pinot Noir Estate Grown (82?), 2006 Shiraz, McLaren Vale

In keeping with the winemaking philosophy here, this is not a big, ripe, Aussie fruit bomb. Instead, it’s an earthier style, with coffee and black olive notes backed by ripe blackberries. An olive-crusted rack of lamb would be a top-notch food pairing.——J.C.(3/1/2008)—— 86