This dessert wine has pushed itself to the front of the line of California sweeties, and the ’04 is a great bottling. It’s enormously sweet in late-harvest character, with apricot liqueur, pineapple tart and vanilla cream flavors that are brightened and boosted with cleansing acidity. So addictively delicious you just can’t help yourself. ——S.H.(12/1/2006)—— 95