Coming from the same three parcels as last year's rendition of this cru, Pacalet's 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.-Jacques thus has a very hard act to follow, but acquits itself admirably in the context of its vintage. Fresh cherry, purple plum, rose petal, and peony combine for a ravishing aroma. A brightly fresh red-fruited yet silken-textured palate is streaked with salt, crustacean reduction, and poultry-like, smoky pan drippings. This finishes with smoky pungency offering counterpoint to red fruits and to a lingering, haunting aura of liquid floral perfume. I would anticipate it being worth following for at least half a dozen years. The elevage for his 2006s was a bit precocious, says Pacalet, though this was not for want of his trying to slow things down and give the wines time to fatten on their lees. In most essentials, however – including his fidelity to whole clusters and stems and abhorrence of sulfur – Pacalet treated this crop much as he had its illustrious 2005 predecessor. (For further details on Pacalet's unorthodox methods, readers are encouraged to consult my report in issue 171. And please be aware that these wine demand ideal storage in order not to risk spoilage.) Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191