From mixed age of vines in three micro-climatically distinctive parcels, Pacalet’s 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St.-Jacques smells of rose petal, licorice, black cherry, plum and smoked meat. Fantastically concentrated and savory – with saliva- and tear-inducing smoke, salt, pan dripping, meat juice and soy – this clings with grand cru complexity and length. Deep meatiness, superbly ripe fruit (at 14.1% alcohol, incidentally), chocolate richness, persistent inner-mouth florality and ineffable minerality are all part of the show. I seldom eat lunch, but I splurged on black truffles and beef at La Regalade and called in late for my next appointment just so that I could help finish this bottle! Importer: Louis/Dressner Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 334 8191