From the I Castei line, the 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico I Castei Campo Casalin is a bit over the top for my tastes, and I can hardly imagine what foods could possible stand up to a wine of this enormous density. Seriously intense and extracted, it delivers layers of caramelized brown sugar, spicy Oriental meat sauce, dark molasses and charred ebony, jammy blackberry and tertiary aromas of tar, cola and resin. The wine feels slightly older than it really is. A combination of clay soils in the vineyard, barrique aging and 15.5% alcohol give it blockbuster power and determination. Drink 2014-2020.
Sergio and Maria Castellani farm 40 hectares in the Classico zone that are almost all planted to the traditional Pergola training system. The overhead trellis is making a comeback in these beautiful hills after many years of experimentation with cordons, cane-pruned vines and other international systems. The family sources fruit from two important single vineyards, Ca del Pipa and dei Castei, and each represents its own line of wines under the Castellani Michele & Figli brand.
Importer: Bedford International, www.winesfrombedford.com