Weingut Andreas Schmitges 'vom Roten Schiefer' Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, Germany

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The 2008 Riesling Kabinett Vom Roten Schiefer once again originates in gently sloping red slate of the Deutschherrenberg vineyard, a cool spot that receives only morning and early afternoon sunshine, but whose fruit – thanks to careful canopy and yield management – Schmitges harvested at the same time and with comparable must weight to his Kabinett grapes from Treppchen. Due to acidity efficacious even by Riesling standards, 54 grams of residual sugar come off as not awkwardly sweet, nor the wine as sweet-sour bifurcated. Pungently herbal throughout, with juicy honeydew melon, lemon, and orange tinged with mint and sassafras, this is delicate, buoyant, and underlain by wet stone – in short, a classic, capital “K” Mosel Kabinett that should keep well for at least a decade. Andreas Schmitges worked with a combination of spontaneous fermentation and judicious yeasting to render his dry wine-dominated 2008 collection, one which struck me as somewhat short-changing the vintage’s inherent virtues. An example of this is his decision to chaptalize his Riesling Grauschiefer up to 13% for the sake of stylistic continuity.Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO (720) 272-6544

Opens in an offbeat (in a good way) style, with cantaloupe, orange, chamomile and newly mown hay scents that give way to more classic flavors of wet stones and apricot in the mouth. There’s quite a bit of residual sugar here but the crisp acidity results in a fairly dry finish. Drink now to 2011. ——W.E.(6/1/2010)—— 86