Weingut Andreas Schmitges 'vom Roten Schiefer' Riesling Kabinett, Mosel, Germany

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The search for Kabinett these days takes many forms, and Schmitges has acquired and replanted a parcel in the obscure, red slate Rachtiger Deutschherrenberg (just downstream and across the river from Zeltingen) that is shaded practically the entire afternoon, from whence his 2006 Riesling Kabinett Vom Roten Schiefer demonstrates in their first vintage that these vines will ripen at reasonably low sugar, rendering a Riesling of 9% alcohol, genuine delicacy, cool melon and apple fruit, and only subtle sweetness. Some of the typical creaminess of the vintage is also present, and if this is not the last word in complexity or distinctiveness, it is still delicious and points to an interesting future as these vines mature, and as (perhaps) the weather keeps getting warmer. Enjoy this over the next several years, when it will be especially lovely unaccompanied. A measure of the advantages of a small, ambitious family winery with lots of local connections, Schmittges was able to pick his entire crop in just nine days.Importers include: Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312; Magellan Wine Imports, Centennial, CO; tel. (720) 272-6544.