Protos is a venerable RDD label that doesn’t try to do too much with its wines. This youngster is tight, polished and deep, with rich, oily aromas and creamy, saturated blackberry, plum and chocolate flavors. With spice and depth, it shows how good the 2005 vintage is, even for a big-production joven like this.——M.S.(4/1/2008)—— 89