Exceptional concentration, structure and balance mark this 11-year old blend of Cab, Cinsault and Carignan that’s ripe with cassis and plums and a plume of smoke, earth and barnyard funk. Tannins subdued into a powdery softness, it’s elegantly textured yet full and forward with a rich, layered complexity.——A.I.(9/1/2011)—— 91