The 2007 Pinot Noir Wyeast Vineyard displays a lovely perfume of cedar, spice box, underbrush, and assorted red fruits. Medium-bodied and lively on the palate, it has plenty of sweet fruit, some ripe tannin, and excellent balance. This lengthy effort should drink well through 2017. Owner/winemaker Peter Rosback presides at Sineann. His first vintage was 1995 and current production stands at 13,000 cases of vineyard designated wines from a range of AVAs.Tel. (503) 341-2698; www.sineann.com

The Wyeast Vineyard seems to show a characteristic streak of cinnamon spice as a marker for the site. It sharpens the acids and gives it the sort of high altitude profile you might find in an Argentine Malbec, albeit with more grace, less pure power. It’s supple and lightly spicy, tasting of wild raspberries and hinting at rhubarb. The finish carries suggestions of metal and stone.——P.G.(12/15/2008)—— 91