The 2006 Pinot Noir Wyeast Vineyard is from the Columbia Gorge AVA, a region just beginning to be developed for Pinot Noir. It’s a leaned down version lacking generosity. It has some structure and should evolve for a couple of years but is never going to be a friendly wine. Sineann’s major domo is Peter Rosback whose first vintage was 1995. The winery currently produces 13,000 cases from a variety of AVAs.Tel. (503) 341-2698; www.sineann.com

This has a lively presence in the mouth, with a generous dollop of cinnamon spice. The cranberry/raspberry fruit flavors are supported with tangy acids, and lead into a lingering finish that carries suggestions of metal and stone. Quite different from the 2005 Wyeast, this new release reflects a different vintage with equally fine character, a mark of true terroir.——P.G.(2/1/2008)—— 89