In this warm, ripe, lush and forward vintage, winemaker John Abbott has outdone himself. This is immediately appealing, sending a rush of black cherry and cassis fruit backed with darker notes of coffee, smoke and licorice. The flavors are dense and supple, and the wine combines grace and power, unfolding with additional layers of tar, green tea and smoky herb.——P.G.(12/1/2008)—— 93