The Trasnocho 2007 has an intense coconut and mocha-scented bouquet with scintilla of milk chocolate developing with time. It blossoms nicely with aeration. The palate is full-bodied with a tannic entry. There are luscious black fruits laced with creme de cassis and blueberry that disguise the fairly robust tannins. Towards there finish there are touches of Chinese tea, balsamic and white pepper on the finish. This may well be imbued with greater complexity than the 2006 Trasnocho, but may require more bottle age. Drink 2014-2020+. Fernando Remirez de Ganuza needs no introduction. In some ways, he reminds me of Gerard Perse of Chateau Pavie in terms of his determination, unwillingness to compromise and singular vision. Looks-wise, they could be brothers. Fernando has already won acclaim for his wines that are created in his state-of-the-art facility in the village of Samaniego. The picturesque medieval buildings that surround a small manicured garden and a natural spring belie a winery where no expense is spared. Fernando has an almost obsessive intolerance towards cleanliness and hygiene. All that was missing was a doormat to clean your shoes as you enter the vat-room. He famously uses just the “shoulder” part of grape bunches for his top wines, since he believes they have more intensity than the bottom. These wines are crafted in a modern fashion and you can taste the effort that has gone into them. Yet at the same time, there is part of me that would like Fernando to take risks and be wary of not over-analyzing the wines, which can detract from their personality and risk making them over-polished and generic. Perfectionism is an admirable virtue to aspire to, but imperfections can make something more interesting to experience. The Vina Coqueta comes from 41-year-old vines is 5.5-hectare namesake vineyard, a blend of 90% Tempranillo, 8% Graciano and 2% Garnacha that is blended with the skins of the white grapes, then raised for two years in barrel (90% French and 10% American). The Reserva is a blend of 85% Tempranillo, 5% the skins of Viura and Malvasia that are added during fermentation and 10% of Graciano, no younger than 40-years in age. It is raised in 95% French and 5% American oak for approximately 25 months. The Trasnocho is made from the same fruit as the Reserva, but is pressed gently through a water-filled bag inserted into the vat and left to inflate overnight. It is then raised entirely in French new oak. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

The 2007 Trasnocho is opaque purple-colored, with aromas of toasty oak, mineral, violets, and blackberry. Medium to full-bodied on the palate, it is loaded with flavor in an easy-to-understand style. Give it 2-3 years of cellaring and drink it through 2027. Bodegas Fernando Remirez de Ganuza is one of Rioja’s benchmark estates. It encompasses about 132 acres located in four regions of Alava Rioja planted to approximately 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano. The winery itself is located in the village of Samaniego. Upon my arrival at the Bodega in May 2010, I discovered a surprise. In addition to a vertical tasting of all the Reservas, Senor Remirez had prepared a similar vertical of Trasnocho, a wine that has never been exported to the USA. With all due respect, the greatest vintages from Bodegas Fernando Remirez de Ganuza in my opinion are 2004 and 2001. Trasnocho is Fernando Remirez de Ganuza’s take on a more contemporary style.Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767