The 2006 Trasnocho is similarly styled but with a bit more density and length. It, too, will benefit from several more years of bottle age and drink well through 2026. Bodegas Fernando Remirez de Ganuza is one of Rioja’s benchmark estates. It encompasses about 132 acres located in four regions of Alava Rioja planted to approximately 90% Tempranillo and 10% Graciano. The winery itself is located in the village of Samaniego. Upon my arrival at the Bodega in May 2010, I discovered a surprise. In addition to a vertical tasting of all the Reservas, Senor Remirez had prepared a similar vertical of Trasnocho, a wine that has never been exported to the USA. With all due respect, the greatest vintages from Bodegas Fernando Remirez de Ganuza in my opinion are 2004 and 2001. Trasnocho is Fernando Remirez de Ganuza’s take on a more contemporary style.Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

The 2006 Trasnocho is a blend of 90% Tempranillo, 5% Graciano and 5% Viura, complemented by the skins from Malvasia. It has a well-defined bouquet with black cherries, blackberry and a touch of brine. The palate is full-bodied with fine tension and vibrancy, good structure and a grainy texture. This is full of vigor and joie-de-vivre and cut through with superb acidity. This is the kind of modern-style Rioja that oozes panache, one that you want to drink again and again. Drink 2012-2025. Fernando Remirez de Ganuza needs no introduction. In some ways, he reminds me of Gerard Perse of Chateau Pavie in terms of his determination, unwillingness to compromise and singular vision. Looks-wise, they could be brothers. Fernando has already won acclaim for his wines that are created in his state-of-the-art facility in the village of Samaniego. The picturesque medieval buildings that surround a small manicured garden and a natural spring belie a winery where no expense is spared. Fernando has an almost obsessive intolerance towards cleanliness and hygiene. All that was missing was a doormat to clean your shoes as you enter the vat-room. He famously uses just the “shoulder” part of grape bunches for his top wines, since he believes they have more intensity than the bottom. These wines are crafted in a modern fashion and you can taste the effort that has gone into them. Yet at the same time, there is part of me that would like Fernando to take risks and be wary of not over-analyzing the wines, which can detract from their personality and risk making them over-polished and generic. Perfectionism is an admirable virtue to aspire to, but imperfections can make something more interesting to experience. The Vina Coqueta comes from 41-year-old vines is 5.5-hectare namesake vineyard, a blend of 90% Tempranillo, 8% Graciano and 2% Garnacha that is blended with the skins of the white grapes, then raised for two years in barrel (90% French and 10% American). The Reserva is a blend of 85% Tempranillo, 5% the skins of Viura and Malvasia that are added during fermentation and 10% of Graciano, no younger than 40-years in age. It is raised in 95% French and 5% American oak for approximately 25 months. The Trasnocho is made from the same fruit as the Reserva, but is pressed gently through a water-filled bag inserted into the vat and left to inflate overnight. It is then raised entirely in French new oak. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767