The 2008 Lacima comes from the oldest Mencia vines between 50 and 100 years in age raised in 300-liter used barrels. It has a well-defined, very pure bouquet with kirsch, raspberry, crushed stone and bay leaf. The palate is medium-bodied with a very supple, smooth, slightly lactic entry with faint hints of dark chocolate and leather infusing the succulent red fruit, held in check by its crisp acidity. The finish has fine structure and ample freshness, although I cannot help feeling that a soupcon of Mauraton would have added another dimension. Still, this is a very fine wine from Dominio do Bibei. Drink 2013-2019. Occasionally you have to journey to remote areas in order to reach some of Spain’s finest producers, but the long drive to Dominio do Bibei to meet winemaker Javier Dominguez and his team was certainly worth it. Though winemaking in this part of Ribeira Sacra dates back centuries, the winery is unapologetically modern in design, as each disconnected building dedicated to one part of the vinification process cascades down the gorge. The vines occupy steep loam and clay terraces over granite and slate bedrock that are low in organic material, located between 300 and 670 meters in altitude. Javier came across as a deeply philosophical person with strong tenets about his wines, which exuded great purity and varietal expression, almost Burgundy-like in their tannin profile, but with a little more fruit intensity. What I enjoyed was their precision and symmetry – wines that demand concentration before sitting back and simply enjoying them. Importer: De Maison Selections (USA); www.demaisonselections.com; and Carte Blanche (UK)