August Kesseler Riesling Spatlese 530 3

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：2070

Taking its odd name from the distance marker on the Rhine at Rudesheim, Kesseler’s 2006 Riesling Spatlese 530.3 represents a blend of top-quality material from the Rudesheimer Berg. The intention is for the wine so-labeled to be dry-tasting, but Kesseler rejected that possibility out of hand this year as the alcohol would, he says, have been excessive. Grapefruit, kumquat, honey, malt, and nougat make for a rich, enveloping, polished Riesling, but there is enough citricity underlying this to donate liveliness and refreshment, and enough stony suggestion of slate to help balance its effusive fruitiness and near-confectionary notes of nut paste and caramel. This lush, long wine should develop nicely for at least 7-9 years. Kesseler suffered a 50% loss in crop from his long-term average, but ruthless selectivity on top of his usual low yields paid dividends in quality albeit at the price of prominent sweetness. Kesseler attempted neither a Kabinett, nor (insisting that botrytis and alcohol would have been too evident) did he essay any dry wines from his estate holdings in Rudesheim. The 2005 vintage reds – bottled in mid-2007 – have fulfilled their excellent promise. Needless to say, from these steep stone sites, and cropped at the levels requisite for top quality, Kesseler Pinot Noirs do not come cheap. But they certainly invite comparison with red Burgundies selling for comparable prices. And while they are all very ripe, none of these 2005s betray their alcohol in bitterness or heat.Various importers including: Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA tel. 800 362 4420; Dee Vine Wines, San Francisco, CA tel. (877) 389-9463; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland, OR; tel. (503) 236-9370