The unctuous texture and more waxy, heady thickness of the 2008 Roussanne is almost a shock to the palate after the first two dry whites. This oily, full-bodied, pedal-to-the-metal dry white needs to be matched up with rich fish and poultry dishes. It should drink well for 2-3 years, possibly even longer. Robert Haas, the iconic French wine importer, who was one of the first to bring estate-bottled French wines into the United States, continues to go from strength to strength at Tablas Creek. His partner remains the Perrin family of Chateau Beaucastel in Chateauneuf du Pape. They have had three tiny vintages in a row, all producing very small yields, but the quality of their 2007s is the best in the history of the winery, and 2008 is certainly a strong vintage as well. These are wonderful, food-friendly wines with considerable complexity. While they do some varietal naming, the strength of Tablas Creek is their extraordinary Rhone Ranger blends, whether white or red. The 2009 vintage turned out to be an even smaller crop than 2008 and 2007 as a result of spring frost.Tel. (805) 237-1231; Fax (805) 237-1314