Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Kabinett, Nahe, Germany

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At 8.5% alcohol representative of the high residual sugar yet well-balanced style that has become Schlossgut Diel’s norm in residually sweet genres, their 2009 Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Kabinett brims with ripe peach and offers a delicate and refined yet satin-textured and almost opulently ripe impression, infused with invigorating fresh lime, iodine, and salt. This finishes buoyantly, memorably long, intriguingly interactive, and with consummate refreshment. It will be worth following for 15 or more years. Caroline Diel’s 2009 collection is noteworthy not only for a range of outstanding Riesling such as has long been anticipated (though seldom bettered) at this estate, but also for a set of wines from the Pinot family – all, incidentally, now labeled with French rather than German names for their varieties – that in my estimation mark a significant up-tick in quality. That this estate has been famous in Germany for its work with Pinots ever since Armin Diel assumed charge in 1987 and began barrique vinification, I am of course well aware. But only in recent years have I witnessed tendencies to restrain the influence of new wood and to encourage real subtlety, which seem to me prerequisites for achieving with these varieties anything remotely approaching the class of Schlossgut Diel’s Rieslings. The 2009 Pinots were harvested in mid-October and most of the Rieslings in the two weeks following. The superb botrytis selections were all picked-out ahead of even the Pinots.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300