The tank-rendered Pinson 2007 Chablis incorporates, as is usual, fruit from vines near Montmains as well as across the river near Mont-de-Milieu. This year, Pinson included what little fruit hail left behind in the exposed Vaugiraut (a tiny, obscure premier cru bordering Vogros and permitted to take its name) was left behind by hail. It smells of lemon zest, fruit pit distillates, and quarry dust, offering the palate a satisfying alliance of density and refreshment that is admirably pure if not complex. I would plan to enjoy this over the next couple of years. Laurent Pinson operates out of a sophisticated cuverie built in 2003, and departs from the style of an earlier generation here by employing considerable amounts of young wood on his crus – ostensibly to protect fruit and guard against volatility to which wine in older barrels is prey. But sometimes – at least, with his rather tensile 2007s – I found the resultant taste of wood less than synergistic.Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644 and also a Charles Neal Selection, Richmond, CA; tel (415) 225-5144 (with various importers)
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