An imposingly pronounced primary juiciness of lemon and pineapple informs the generic Pinson 2008 Chablis, with tart citrus zest and salt delivering invigoration and refreshment in a sustained finish. This should prove versatile over the next couple of years. Laurent Pinson’s 2008 collection seemed to benefit greatly from the inherent brightness and exuberance of the vintage, in that the awkwardness of oak was less-often evident to me than it had been in either of his immediately preceding collections. Only this year’s Mont de Milieu crossed into 13% alcohol territory, although as the Pinsons reminded me, their 2007s were as a group even a bit lower in alcohol.Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644 and also a Charles Neal Selection, Richmond, CA; tel (415) 225-5144 (with various importers)