A pure expression of the Terlano grape, the Zidarich 2017 Teran shows pretty elegance with wild berry, dried cassis, rosemary essence and toasted almond. The wine's approach and intensity is mild, and the mouthfeel is more delicate than I expected considering the warm vintage. However, this wine offers careful balance and the kind of streamlined style that makes it perfect for pasta with cream sauce and cubes of Prosciutto di San Daniele.

The 2015 Teran has an ample, broad and horizontal bouquet. Plummy and black fruit make up the majority of this mid-weight red, along with cassis and sour cherry. It's not a very long wine in terms of mouthfeel, but it does show nice overall brightness and primary fruit clarity. It is a slender, almost fragile red you might have with some fresh bread and charcuterie.

A pure expression of the red grape Terrano, the 2011 Teran shows a dazzling bouquet that is peppered with dried berries, black olive, clove and cardamom. Wet earth and beetroot also make passing appearances as the wine evolves in the glass. Despite the more difficult vintage, this wine offers an impressive dose of energy and vitality. It’s like a moving target that you can never fully pin down. Its mouth-feel is extremely elegant and polished with long-lasting points of acidity and berry freshness. I’d love to revisit this wine in a year or two. Drink: 2015-2019. Gloriously basking in their unfiltered and untamed personalities, the wines of Zidarich (from the Carso sub region) offer a sneak peek into the Italian “natural” wine movement that has recently picked up so much speed in northeast Italy. They will not appeal to everyone but definitely reward those who seek out this unique school of wine. Importer: A.I. Selections, www.aiselections.com

The 2009 Teran is quite remarkable. Zidarich has managed to tame many of the rustic qualities of Terrano, while not fully abandoning varietal expression. The Teran shows marvelous brightness and energy in its juicy red fruit and plump, personality. This is a fabulous effort. Iron, minerals and grilled herbs add the final layers of complexity. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. GPS isn’t much use in the Carso, one of the most remote corners of Friuli. This rugged stretch of mountains lies above Trieste, with views of the ocean and a microclimate that is very much its own. Beniamino Zidarich somehow managed to paintakingly carve a multi-level cellar out of the rock. But it is really the wines that are most notable. Over the years, Zidarich has fine-tuned his approach and it shows. Zidarich ferments his whites with some skin contact, but prefers to keep that time shorter than many of his colleagues who have adopted a similar approach. Zidarich is one of the most exciting growers in Italy. His wines merit serious attention. A visit to Zidarich is essential for anyone who has a serious interest in the wines, people and culture of the Carso. Importer: A.I. Selections, Astoria, NY; tel. (718) 777-2243

The 2007 Teran showcases Terrano, the indigenous red grape of the Carso. This is idiosyncratic red with plenty of varietal character in its dark fruit, cured meats, earthiness and graphite. Terrano is a quirky grape that can't be fully tamed, but the wine will pair nicely with similarly rustic foods. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Beniamino Zidarich continues to set a high bar for the wines of the Carso, one of Friuli's most fascinating terroirs. This is a superb set of 2008s. Importer: A.I. Selections, Astoria, NY; tel. (718) 777-2243