The 2016 Prulke is a bit more of an orange wine than the others. While it shows good structure, it clearly exhibits those long skin maceration times, and the oxidative fragrances recall dusty mineral and orange peel, with a touch of acacia honey. I'd pair this mid-weight wine with a creamy food such as cheesy mushroom risotto. This wine is a traditional blend of Vitovska, Malvasia and Sauvignon, and its name, Prulke, represents the vineyard site where the fruit is harvested.

The 2011 Prulke is a blend of Vitovska, Malvasia and Sauvignon and the wine shows the biggest aging promise of these new releases from Zidarich. Unfiltered and consequently cloudy in appearance, this inimitable white opens to a broad range of aromas that span mineral, fruit, nut and spice. It delivers a fast evolution in the glass as it builds in oxidative momentum. Its evolutionary arch is only beginning to climb upwards. Drink: 2015-2020. Gloriously basking in their unfiltered and untamed personalities, the wines of Zidarich (from the Carso sub region) offer a sneak peek into the Italian “natural” wine movement that has recently picked up so much speed in northeast Italy. They will not appeal to everyone but definitely reward those who seek out this unique school of wine. Importer: A.I. Selections, www.aiselections.com

The 2009 Prulke, a blend of Vitovska, Malvasia and Sauvignon, comes across as quite dense and structured in this vintage. The wine boasts a powerful core of rich, textured fruit that covers every inch of the palate. Over the last few years Zidarich has really found the sweet spot for this wine. Light honey, apricots, flowers and mint are some of the notes that linger in the empty glass. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. GPS isn’t much use in the Carso, one of the most remote corners of Friuli. This rugged stretch of mountains lies above Trieste, with views of the ocean and a microclimate that is very much its own. Beniamino Zidarich somehow managed to paintakingly carve a multi-level cellar out of the rock. But it is really the wines that are most notable. Over the years, Zidarich has fine-tuned his approach and it shows. Zidarich ferments his whites with some skin contact, but prefers to keep that time shorter than many of his colleagues who have adopted a similar approach. Zidarich is one of the most exciting growers in Italy. His wines merit serious attention. A visit to Zidarich is essential for anyone who has a serious interest in the wines, people and culture of the Carso. Importer: A.I. Selections, Astoria, NY; tel. (718) 777-2243

The 2008 Prulke is once again fabulous. Vitovska, Malvasia and Sauvignon find beautiful counterpoints with each other in this refined, harmonious white. Light honey, mint and crushed flowers swirl around in the glass, adding further dimensions of complexity. The balance and sense of harmony are totally compelling. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Beniamino Zidarich continues to set a high bar for the wines of the Carso, one of Friuli's most fascinating terroirs. This is a superb set of 2008s. Importer: A.I. Selections, Astoria, NY; tel. (718) 777-2243

The 2007 Prulke (Vitovska, Malvasia and Sauvignon) is an explosive, kaleidoscopic wine. All of the elements come together with unusual grace. Stunning in its texture, the wine melds the expressive bouquet of Malvasia and Sauvignon with the richness of Vitovska in a compelling, utterly delicious glass of wine. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2016. This is another very fine set of new wines from Beniamino Zidarich, a small producer located in Friuli’s Carso district. The whites see a brief period of skin contact which contributes volume, depth and complexity. The wines are fermented in oak vats using indigenous yeasts and without temperature control. Aging takes place in oak, and the wines are neither fined nor filtered prior to being bottled. At their best, these are some of the most unique and compelling wines readers are likely to come across. Imported by: JK Imports/Vinissimo Selection, CA, 800-946-3329