Willi Haag Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese, Mosel, Germany

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White peach, Persian melon, and grapefruit inform the nose and palate of Marcus Haag’s 2007 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese, which proves to be more citric than any other wine in this year’s collection, yet at the same time strikingly creamy, glycerin-rich, and subtly oily. The finish suggests honey-dipped walnuts along with ripe peach and melon, very pure and little influenced by botrytis. This ought to be worth following for 12-15 years. Marcus Haag has enjoyed another highly successful vintage in 2007, when his harvest lasted from October 12-27.Various importers including Winebow Inc., Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The Willi Haag 2006 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese was the first wine picked this year at the estate, and came from right beneath the sundial. (The Juffer – Burgerslay was picked a few days later.) Suggestions of nut brittle – along with peach and honey – lead the palate in a malted, lightly caramelized direction, yet there is a persistent, fresh-peach juiciness throughout that helps this wine convey remarkable clarity and delicacy for all of its richness. The finish is every bit as long and luscious as that of the Juffer, but not as exuberant nor as complex. Still, this, too, deserves to be cellared, will doubtless last 25 years, and may have much more to show. Each of these two remarkable Auslesen represents a 2,000 liter tank. Marcus Haag – whose wines often number among the best values in the Mosel – has followed up his unprecedented success in the 2005 vintage with a collection of 2006s again surpassing any of his career.Importer: Billington Imports, Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 455-4700

While the Brauneberger Juffer Auslese revealed strange, disconcerting aromas and flavors of burnt electrical wires, the 2002 Riesling Auslese Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr offers scents of white flowers, butter, as well as cream. Light to medium-bodied, soft, and lush, this effort is also tangy and fresh. Minerals and creamed slate can be found in its velvety-textured core of fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2024. Importers: Chapin Cellars, imported by Billington Imports, Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 455-4700; and a Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300