Weingut Willi Haag Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spatlese Trocken, Mosel, Germany

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The Willi Haag 2009 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spatlese trocken features fresh white peach and white currant. Invigoratingly saline and surprisingly bright for its only modest analytical acidity, it boasts a polished texture and satisfyingly juicy, peach pit- and wet stone-tinged finish. I would plan to enjoy it over the coming 3-5 years. According to Inge Haag, the impact of sporadic October rain was greater in Brauneberg than in most other Mosel villages, and losses to perosopera and negative botrytis led to an unusually small crop (reflected inter alia in the relative absence of wines that require reference to their A.P.#s to disambiguate!) and a relatively early conclusion to the harvest in the final days of October. Must weights, notes Markus Haag, were in an unusually narrow band this year, the choice of which lots to declare as being of which Pradikat falling almost entirely on the basis of style. Fruit from the Burgerslay vineyard so often responsible for the most distinctively delicious wines at this address was in 2009 spread around rather than being dedicated to a single bottling.Numerous importers, including Atlanta Improvement Co.; tel. (404) 876 4500, Imperial Beverage, Kalamazoo, MI; tel. (269) 382 4200, Import A-N-T Wines, Venice, FL; tel. (941) 493 3000, Winebow Inc., Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Beginning – improbably, considering the vintage – with the 2006 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Spatlese trocken, a lovely, expansive nose of nectarine, lime, and diverse flowers leads to a voluminous (13.5% alcohol) palate dense with pit fruit concentrate shot through with lime citricity to keep it lively, and underlain by a stark expression of wet stone. Fruit pit bitterness is present and well-integrated, but there is no bitterness or heat in a satisfyingly long finish from the alcohol. That said, I would be inclined to drink this over the next 2-3 years rather than holding it in my cellar. Marcus Haag – whose wines often number among the best values in the Mosel – has followed up his unprecedented success in the 2005 vintage with a collection of 2006s again surpassing any of his career.Importer: Billington Imports, Springfield, VA; tel. (703) 455-4700