Daniel Vollenweider Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spatlese Reiler

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Yeastiness, a slight acridity, and fusil hints in the nose of Vollenweider's 2008 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spatlese Reiler - from water-retentive soils lower slopes - segue into aromas of resin, distilled herbal essences, sassafras, and candied lemon rind. Offering an amazing combination of palpable extract with lift and of oily texture with brightness, this preserves terrific back-end refreshment even as quince preserves and honey emerge to prominence. Like its non-vineyard-designated sibling, it harbors a terrific - probably 20+-year - future, but it will need longer to sort itself out, especially aromatically , though even short-term there may be some clarification on that front. Given the premium Daniel Vollenweider puts on delicacy and vivacity as hallmarks of Middle Mosel Riesling, it is easy to see why he is pleased with the character of his 2008s, although in the dry echelons these wines are apt to strike many tasters as too marked by their acidity.Importers include Vineyard Research, Inc., Lunenburg, MA; tel. 617 686 8052; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; tel. 888 274 4312; A Bill Mayer Age of Riesling Selection Imported by Valley View Wine Sales, Glen Ellen, CA; tel. (510) 549 2444

The 2005 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spatlese “Reiler,” from a red slate site more than a little reminiscent of Erdener Treppchen, displays a lovely nose of lime, tangerine, grapefruit, nectarine, and sassafras. In the mouth, this displays a transparency to subtle smoky, salty nuances, and a juicy purity of citrus fruit, leading to a luscious, pure, refreshing, enveloping finish. As a site with somewhat more than the usual depth of fine particulate matter, the Reiler holds moisture and promoted more botrytis than the Portz. Yet tasting them, I would have sworn Portz is the wine most influenced by rot. While Vollenweider’s wines have not yet established a track record for ageability, it seems safe to assume that these outstanding Spatlesen would at least repay 10-12 years’ cellaring. Importer: Vineyard Research, Inc., Lunenburg, MA; tel. (617) 686-8052; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; tel. (888) 274-4312; Old Vine Imports, San Francisco, CA