Daniel Vollenweider Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spatlese Reiler

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The 2005 Wolfer Goldgrube Riesling Spatlese “Reiler,” from a red slate site more than a little reminiscent of Erdener Treppchen, displays a lovely nose of lime, tangerine, grapefruit, nectarine, and sassafras. In the mouth, this displays a transparency to subtle smoky, salty nuances, and a juicy purity of citrus fruit, leading to a luscious, pure, refreshing, enveloping finish. As a site with somewhat more than the usual depth of fine particulate matter, the Reiler holds moisture and promoted more botrytis than the Portz. Yet tasting them, I would have sworn Portz is the wine most influenced by rot. While Vollenweider’s wines have not yet established a track record for ageability, it seems safe to assume that these outstanding Spatlesen would at least repay 10-12 years’ cellaring. Importer: Vineyard Research, Inc., Lunenburg, MA; tel. (617) 686-8052; Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; tel. (888) 274-4312; Old Vine Imports, San Francisco, CA