Weingut Max Ferd. Richter Mulheimer Helenenkloster Riesling Spatlese, Mosel, Germany

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The 2004 Muhlheimer Helenenkloster Riesling Spatlese preserves much of the juiciness, buoyancy, and charm of its Kabinett counterpart, but here raised to another degree of ripeness. Apple and nectarine aromas lead to a creamy but juicy and elegant palate display of orchard fruits augmented by salty minerality. Clear fresh fruit and subtle minerality make for a lovely, understated finish and a good value. Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland,?OH; tel. (216) 861-6800.

Smoky minerals and super-ripe pears can be found in the nose of the plump, thick 2001 Riesling Spatlese Mulheimer Helenenkloster. This wine bursts on the palate with oodles of richness. Chewy poached pears burst on the taster's palate, unleashing sweet, velvety waves. This wine lacks the delineation and extensive finish found in Richter's other 2001 Spatleses, yet it is luxuriously opulent and dense. Projected maturity: Now-2010. Importer: David Shiverick, Langdon-Shiverick, Cleveland, OH; tel. (216) 861-6800.