Weingut Max Ferd. Richter Riesling, Mosel, Germany

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Richter’s generic Rieslings are normally in fact from a single vineyard – and he has no mediocre vineyards – but even so I was surprised at the high quality of his 2008 Riesling – finished nearly-dry, and coming entirely from the Brauneberger Juffer – given that the drier wines that preceded it were good but not inspiring. In the end, this may be a testimony to the unsurprisingly salutary effects of a bit more residual sugar on the balance of a wine with such high acidity. “We had the November weather in October, and the lovely October weather in November,” says Dirk Richter of 2008, thereby essentially explaining his harvest strategy. He ameliorated acidity through skin contact; nature helped by precipitating tartrates; and nonetheless, some wines were de-acidified already as must. Richter is pleased to characterize the results as “classic Mosel Rieslings,” and since Richter spends a great deal of time promoting his wines in the U.S. I am happy to be able to concur in that description, even if some of his 2008s are only modestly successful. Richter admits that this collection is likely at least for the short term to be overshadowed by those on either side of it, but speculates that the 2008s will have their day if given time.Importer: Langdon-Shiverick Cleveland,?OH; tel. (216) 861-6800