The 2002 Riesling Kabinett Norheimer Dellchen is aromatically demure yet reveals a lush, pear-laced personality with complex notes of gravel and tangy limes. A wine of outstanding clarity and grip, its light to medium-bodied character is satin-textured, focused, and long. Projected maturity: 2004-2013. For the second year in a row, Helmut Donnhoff has left me shaking my head in wonder. Having tasted the greatest wines in the world, year in and year out, as a wine merchant and as a critic, did not prepare me for the awe-inspiring experience of tasting through Donnhoff’s 2001s and 2002s. They are magical, emotional, breath-taking. My words cannot do them justice. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300