Clemens Busch Pundericher Marienburg Riesling Spatlese Felsterrassen

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：1810

From old vines in a small set of terraces sheltered between two huge outcroppings of grey slate above Falkenlay, Busch’s 2007 Pundericher Marienburg Riesling Felsterrasse smells of grapefruit zest, white raisin, yellow plum, crushed stone, peat, and wood smoke. This wine’s botrytis-inflected aromas are allied to a rich, honeyed, voluminous, oily-textured palate impression underlain by toasted pecan. Citrus oil and white pepper lend a surprisingly invigorating aspect to the long finish on display here. Analytically or even aesthetically speaking, it may be that only a fine line separates the more successful Busch 2007s from those that in some sense “got away.” This is indubitably one of the unqualified successes, and should be worth following for at least 5-7 years. Clemens Busch – among the Mosel’s few organic vintners, and the undisputed champion of the Lower Mosel’s steep Pundericher Marienburg – is also rapidly demonstrating that he is simply one of the collective Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer’s exceptional talents, not to mention stylistically free spirits. Most of his top wines are labeled with their old pre-1971 site names. Nature thrust on him in 2006 an unprecedented 9 Auslesen (many distinguished only by number), 3 Beerenauslesen, and single T.B.A. (most of which were reviewed in issue 179). In 2007, an at least slightly more normal – not to mention more marketable – balance of dry-tasting (though not always legally trocken) wines was restored, but success, Busch insists, was possible only by dint of great patience and then, when the time was ripe for picking, in great haste. A considerable number of overtly nobly sweet wine was picked in the process, as there was no lack of botrytis in this fungicide-free zone.Mosel Wine Merchant selections (various importers), Trier, Gemany; fax 011 49 (0)651-14551 39; also imported by by Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR tel. 888 274 4312

Busch’s 2005 Pundericher Marienburg Riesling Spatlese Felsterrasse combines tropical fruits, diverse citrus oils, with an almost dusty suffusion of slate minerality. Overtly creamy and yeasty like most of its brethren, and only subtly sweet, this polished performance finishes on papaya, brown-spiced pear, citrus zest, and a persistently dusty, tactile suggestion of pulverized stone. Feel free to follow this over the next 10-12 years, during which I suspect it will gain further complexity. Clemens Busch farms the steep slopes of the once-famous Pundericher Marienburg on the Lower Mosel entirely organically, which make him unique in the region and a source of wonder for his fellow vintners. Most of his top wines are labeled with their old pre-1971 site names. (Increasingly many growers are managing to get away with this.) Busch has been bottling nobly sweet Riesling since 1999, but never before – he hastens to inform me – in quantities remotely like those that nature imposed on him in 2006: Nine Auslesen, three Beerenauslesen, and a T.B.A.! Like Reinhard Lowenstein (and in a similar style), Busch is best-known inside Germany for his dry (or near-dry) single-site wines, which are not released for more than a year after harvest. (In fact, most of the 2006s had not finished fermenting yet when I visited last summer.)Mosel Wine Merchant selections (various importers), Trier, Gemany; fax 011 49 (0)651-14551 39; also imported by by Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; tel. 888-274-4312