Busch’s 2005 Pundericher Marienburg Riesling Spatlese Felsterrasse combines tropical fruits, diverse citrus oils, with an almost dusty suffusion of slate minerality. Overtly creamy and yeasty like most of its brethren, and only subtly sweet, this polished performance finishes on papaya, brown-spiced pear, citrus zest, and a persistently dusty, tactile suggestion of pulverized stone. Feel free to follow this over the next 10-12 years, during which I suspect it will gain further complexity. Clemens Busch farms the steep slopes of the once-famous Pundericher Marienburg on the Lower Mosel entirely organically, which make him unique in the region and a source of wonder for his fellow vintners. Most of his top wines are labeled with their old pre-1971 site names. (Increasingly many growers are managing to get away with this.) Busch has been bottling nobly sweet Riesling since 1999, but never before – he hastens to inform me – in quantities remotely like those that nature imposed on him in 2006: Nine Auslesen, three Beerenauslesen, and a T.B.A.! Like Reinhard Lowenstein (and in a similar style), Busch is best-known inside Germany for his dry (or near-dry) single-site wines, which are not released for more than a year after harvest. (In fact, most of the 2006s had not finished fermenting yet when I visited last summer.)Mosel Wine Merchant selections (various importers), Trier, Gemany; fax 011 49 (0)651-14551 39; also imported by by Ewald Moseler Selections, Portland OR; tel. 888-274-4312
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