Von Kunow’s 2006 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese is another of those prickly-pungent botrytis Rieslings of its vintage, here displaying an odd and awkward combination of cutting acidity with a diffuse over-ripe peach, musk, and honey impression. Von Kunow points out that these 2006s really “ate sulfur,” and I suspect this one may be temporarily stunted by the effects. Ebernard von Kunow’s outstanding 2005 collection gave promise of a return to the quality that made this estate a leader for most of the last quarter century, and – in the context of a challenging vintage – his 2006s were reassuring on that score. Patient settling of the musts and selective bentonite fining were von Kunow’s non-aggressive tools for dealing with the negative side of botrytis one of the most rigorous triages that time permitted had taken place in the vineyards. Rapid harvest, low yields and a frank desire to simplify things a bit, have resulted in fewer individual bottlings than one generally associates with this address.Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. (800) 596-9463

A “one star” 2005 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese* – from von Kunow’s oldest vines in this site – smells of poached peaches and pears, then comes onto the palate with polished, creamy texture, rich yet refined peachiness, refreshing citricity, sweet inner mouth florality, a subtle touch of honey, and a satisfying cantus firmus of wet stone slatiness. The finish of this wine focuses into a kind of liqueur-like essence and liquid minerality yet is, all the while, wafting and elegant in presentation, with superb length and subtlety. I cannot recall having tasted a better Scharzhofberger bottling from von Hovel. Also recommended: 2005 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese ($36.00; 86), 2005 Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Kabinett ($20.00; 85).Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800-596-9463