A “one star” 2005 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese* – from von Kunow’s oldest vines in this site – smells of poached peaches and pears, then comes onto the palate with polished, creamy texture, rich yet refined peachiness, refreshing citricity, sweet inner mouth florality, a subtle touch of honey, and a satisfying cantus firmus of wet stone slatiness. The finish of this wine focuses into a kind of liqueur-like essence and liquid minerality yet is, all the while, wafting and elegant in presentation, with superb length and subtlety. I cannot recall having tasted a better Scharzhofberger bottling from von Hovel. Also recommended: 2005 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese ($36.00; 86), 2005 Oberemmeler Hutte Riesling Kabinett ($20.00; 85).Importer: Rudi Wiest, Cellars International, Carlsbad, CA; tel. 800-596-9463